By Colin Beal

Colin spent time in Wyoming this year working on ranches. He helped the Hellyer family for a short time before heading off to new adventures. This is his account of his experience gathering cattle.

At 6 a.m., the National Anthem played over the radio at the breakfast table.  Like the beginning of a sporting event, “home of the brave” signified the challenge ahead.  The words proved to be accurate, as my host and friends would brave the cold for three days to drive cattle roughly 35 miles.

The drive started at the Burnt Ranch on South Pass, located at the intersection of what was the Oregon, California, and Mormon Trails.  The wide open plateau extends beyond the horizon on a good day, and well beyond visibility in blowing snow.

Blogging about gathering cattle in Wyoming

A coyote looks on as the cattle were gathered on Day 1

The herd was well-positioned to be gathered and fed at the west end of the Ranch around the cabin for the night.  The cattle are accustomed to spending their summers on a mixture of federal and private land. This management strategy with public and private land is critical to the operation.

Blogging about gathering cattle on South Pass in Wyoming

The Burnt Ranch cabin on South Pass

The Burnt Ranch is the base of summer operations for the Ranch.  As summer turns to fall, the cattle are moved to irrigated pastures along the Sweetwater River. When winter approaches, the cattle are fed hay and gathered to begin the drive down to Lander and a friendly climate.

Cattle roundup in Wyoming

It looks like this cow was ready to get off the mountain

Putting tire chains on the truck while herding cattle in Wyoming

An anxious herd watches Rob Hellyer and his son, Jim, put tire chains on the truck

Several inches of snow fell that night and the strong winds made for rough road conditions.  As a result, the ranchers’ reinforcements (all neighbors) had to improvise.  The five-man crew coming up the mountain from Lander on the second day was forced to park their trucks and horse trailers in Atlantic City and ride the remaining distance up the mountain to meet the herd.  This delayed their arrival, and, the four-man crew from the cabin set out alone to begin the drive.  Despite the lead tractor getting stuck in a drift and a faulty tire chain that immobilized a truck and trailer, the four-man crew from the cabin was able to get the cattle lined-out and moving across the snow-blown mountain.

Gathering cattle in the blowing snow in Wyoming

Rob Hellyer (on foot) and his wife, Martha (on horseback), moving cattle through the snow

Gathering cattle in Wyoming

A view from the back

Gathering cattle in the winter in Wyoming

Martha Hellyer and her son, George

With eight riders, progress was steady for the rest of day two.  The cattle reached the overnight holding pen, 15 miles from the cabin, and were fed just before dark.  After a long day, the crew was ready for a meal and a warm fire to escape the single digit temperatures and strong winds.

Feeding hay in winter in Wyoming

Jim Hellyer feeds hay in single digit temperatures

On the last day, the cattle were driven off the mountain along highway 28.  The riders’ job was to keep the herd moving steadily, keep cattle out of the road, and be careful of oncoming trucks and traffic.  Contrary to the dismal weather forecast, winds were mild on the third day and the crew was able to move the herd roughly 20 miles to winter pasture.

Trailing cattle along the road

The herd passing Red Canyon.

Last of the herd goes by.

Rob Hellyer and his daughter, Jessica, bring in the last of the herd.

This is our yearly Cattle Drive, which is about 25 miles long.

Cattle must be moved from place to place in Wyoming to provide enough feed for the livestock without harming the range by overgrazing.

We trail about 200-350 cows every year back and forth between home and the place we lease. We start early in the morning and get done late in the afternoon.

Moving cattle from one place to another is often done horseback or with vehicles and ATVs. It is often more efficient and economical to move cattle in one big group than it would be to hire trucks to haul the large herds of cattle from place to place.

Its become a fun family time! We trail in the spring and then again in the fall and have been taking the trip for 6 or 7 years. I think it feels shorter every time we go!

From RealRancher Katie Keith – Casper, WY

Yes, I know I’ve been lax in my duties writing about the Upper Green River Cattle Drive this year, so here is a little summary and photos to make up for it.

There was so much snow in the mountains this year and it took so long to melt off that the drive started about a week late.

Bob Klaren and Kent Price look off the south end of the Mesa during the Upper Green River Drift (Photo by Gina Feltner)

Bob Klaren and Kent Price look off the south end of the Mesa during the Upper Green River Drift (Photo by Gina Feltner)

The cattle had very good grass down on the Mesa where we started and they hated to leave it, I can’t say I blamed them since all they had to look forward to up on the mountain was shorter grass and wolves and grizzly bears, but once we got moving, the cattle trailed pretty well.

Early Morning on The Mesa (Photo by Gina Feltner)

There were a few interesting things we saw this year on the drive.  We had our first bear-killed calf on the trail this year as the cattle were moving up.  It is the furthest down we’ve ever had a kill; I guess the bears got tired of waiting for dinner and decided to come find it.

Charles Price Kent Price Search for Sick Calves Photo by Gina Feltner

Charles Price and Kent Price search for sick calves during the Upper Green River Drift (Photo by Gina Feltner)

Gina Feltner and I saw a grizzly bear on the trail one morning toward the end of the drive.  Despite all the problems the grizzly bears cause, they are still fun to see.

Down the Hennick Draw Photo by Gina Feltner

Going down the Hennick Draw during the Upper Green River Drift (Photo by Gina Feltner)

We also had dudes with us from Irv Lozier’s outfit again this year and I have to give a shout-out to them.  Some of them were here last year and some were new this year, but they were all very friendly and helpful.

From RealRancher Kent Price – Daniel, Wyo.

As the temperature cools, the leaves turn to brilliant yellow and orange colors, the days shorten and eventually snow appears on the mountain summer range, the cattle head for home. The cows are just like the deer and antelope. They start migrating to the home ranch as the fall weather start to send reminders of winter.

Many of the cattle run in common grazing allotments where several ranchers’ cattle run together (see Kent Price’s posts on the driving cattle to the summer pastures).  As the cattle trail from the mountains and reach the low lands, the ranchers have to separate their own cattle from the main bunch and take them to the home ranch.

Rancher Nikki Marincic watches the Price-Sommers cattle during fall gather near Pinedale, Wyo.

Depending on the location of the home ranch, the cattle trail five to 70 miles to get to a “cut ground.”  A cut ground consists of an open area, vaguely defined either by fences, roads, or topographic features where cowboys separate the cattle according to which ranch’s herd they belong.  The cattle are bunched in a localized area and each rancher rides into the herd and “cuts” or brings out his own cattle from the main herd.  The cattle are put in a “cut” or herd consisting only of the individual rancher’s cattle.  The rancher’s cattle are identified by the rancher’s brand and earmark (tag or notch on the cattle’s ear, much like an earring) that is on each cow.

As Kent Price talks about in his posts on www.realranchers.com, the cattle bunch up at the "Drift Fence." Here the livestock can be easily "cut" or separated based on which ranch owns which cattle.

Many of the cows know where their cut is located and they try to get there on their own accord.  If they have their calf with them, the ranchers will usually allow them to go on their own.  Many times the cow has become separated from her calf, and has to be “mothered up” or joined with her calf before she is allowed to leave the herd.  Yearlings are like many kids and are just having fun.  They don’t care where they are while enjoying life.

The wintery weather in Pinedale comes earlier than in other parts of Wyoming. Here the ranchers are driving cattle home after spending summer on the range.

While the rancher is in the main herd cutting out the ranch’s cattle, other riders are on the outside keeping the main herd in one bunch and only letting out the cattle being driven to the individual cuts.   There will be another rider by each individual cut to keep the cattle in their designated area and not allowing stray cattle into the “cut.”

After driving the cattle down off summer range, they group up at the Drift Fence to be cut into each ranch's herds.

Once the cattle are all separated, they are driven to their home ranch.  This process goes on for around two weeks as the cows trail from the mountain pastures.  The summer cowboys ride back for the cattle in the mountains which have not headed home.  After it has snowed enough to make the landscape white, an airplane is often flown over the range to look for stragglers which are still in the mountains.

Often the riders go back several times to get the stragglers who haven't come down on their own accord.

As the sun rises over the Wind River Mountains and the steam from the breath or hot bodies of the cattle can be seen in the air, the excitement of working the cattle takes place.  It is a great feeling to have a well trained cow horse move its muscles under you as the horse automatically outmaneuvers and out thinks the cow to put her on the edge of the main herd and then into the individual cut.  This is also a great time to visit with neighbors and friends.

Cattle get loaded into trailers to haul to the home place.

Some ranchers have private allotments in the foothills and haul or drive their cattle to and from the private pasture, but we’ll save that for another story.

By RealRancher Jonita Sommers -Pinedale, Wyo.

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