Public Lands


The sun starts to lighten the skyline above the Wind River Mountains while the song birds can be heard singing and the warm and cool air currents can be felt as the cowboys ride across the sagebrush, BLM allotment to gather the cattle and start them marching north to summer pasture.  This is the beginning of summer in the Green River Valley.  This is the scene from the middle of June to the first part of July on the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) grazing allotments  in the Green River Valley.  The cattle are methodically gathered and put on the trail to the summer pasture in the mountains on Forest Service land or private.  The cattle are trailed anywhere from 10 miles to 70 miles depending on the summer grazing pastures.

Ranchers move their cattle to public lands allotments to graze in Western Wyoming.

Bobby Gilbank and Eddie Wardell putting cattle into Fish Creek Park.

The first Forest Service grazing permits were issued in 1906. To get a permit at this time, a rancher had to have a ranch in the area and to have used the open range in the last three years. Starting in the 1930s, the cattle were counted by the Forest Service to see how many head each rancher was putting on the Forest Service grazing allotment.

Ranchers move their cattle to public lands allotments to graze in Western Wyoming.

Bringing cattle off of the Mesa into the Hennick Draw while moving cattle to the mountains.

Starting in 1970s, more intensive grazing systems were developed, so the cattle could be grazed to benefit the grass.  Much of the land was at too high an altitude to have rest-rotation pasture systems, so deferred grazing pasture systems were developed. A deferred grazing system describes the process by which cattle enter the foothills of a pasture system in the spring and migrate to the high country and then drift down the other side to a low pasture in the fall. The following year cattle use the opposite low pasture first and out the other pasture in the fall.  This allows the grass a recovery time. A rest rotation grazing system consists of four pastures, which works by resting one pasture every year while the other three are grazed.  The rested pasture is rotated every year.

Tanner Butner and Michael Klaren doctor calves on the way to the mountains.

The 1980s saw riparian areas being part of a concerted effort to improve the stream bank life.  Beginning in the 1990s, range monitoring was done in cooperation with the ranchers, forest service range conservationists and the University of Wyoming’s county extension agent and range specialists.

Ranchers move their cattle to public lands allotments to graze in Western Wyoming.

The ranchers stop their cattle herd at the Blue Reservoir after coming off the Desert.

By the late 1990s and early 2000s, cows and the ranchers began dealing with the grizzly bears and wolves killing livestock.  It is hard to see a calf mauled and suffering or a cow bawling for her dead calf.  Some cows have been killed by the predators when protecting their young.

Ranchers move their cattle to public lands allotments to graze in Western Wyoming.

Keith Murphy moves cows up Pinon Ridge to Fish Creek Park.

The cows are monitored by a cowboy or cowboys in each pasture system.  The cattle are moved to a new pasture as the grass is used and new grass is needed.  Many of the old cows know where their favorite spots in the mountains are located, so they will grab their calf and take off to enjoy the mountain pasture.

Ranchers move their cattle to public lands allotments to graze in Western Wyoming.

Jamie Swain, Keith Murphy and Garlie Swain taking cattle into Fish Creek Park.

It is always fun to move the cows to the new pasture.  The growth of the calves can be seen.  Beautiful mountain scenery, fresh crisp mountain air, beautiful wildflowers, cow and calf elk mingling with the cows, moose along the river bottom in the willows, deer and antelope throughout the pasture are seen during the cow drive.

Ranchers move their cattle to public lands allotments to graze in Western Wyoming.

Albert Sommers brings cattle out of the Hennick Draw.

Some ranchers have private allotments in the foothills and haul or drive their cattle to and from the private pasture.  This is for another story.

Ranchers move their cattle to public lands allotments to graze in Western Wyoming.

Sprout and Eddie Wardell move cows into Fish Creek Park.

From RealRancher Jonita Sommers, Sommers RanchPinedale, Wyo.

By Colin Beal

Colin spent time in Wyoming this year working on ranches. He helped the Hellyer family for a short time before heading off to new adventures. This is his account of his experience gathering cattle.

At 6 a.m., the National Anthem played over the radio at the breakfast table.  Like the beginning of a sporting event, “home of the brave” signified the challenge ahead.  The words proved to be accurate, as my host and friends would brave the cold for three days to drive cattle roughly 35 miles.

The drive started at the Burnt Ranch on South Pass, located at the intersection of what was the Oregon, California, and Mormon Trails.  The wide open plateau extends beyond the horizon on a good day, and well beyond visibility in blowing snow.

Blogging about gathering cattle in Wyoming

A coyote looks on as the cattle were gathered on Day 1

The herd was well-positioned to be gathered and fed at the west end of the Ranch around the cabin for the night.  The cattle are accustomed to spending their summers on a mixture of federal and private land. This management strategy with public and private land is critical to the operation.

Blogging about gathering cattle on South Pass in Wyoming

The Burnt Ranch cabin on South Pass

The Burnt Ranch is the base of summer operations for the Ranch.  As summer turns to fall, the cattle are moved to irrigated pastures along the Sweetwater River. When winter approaches, the cattle are fed hay and gathered to begin the drive down to Lander and a friendly climate.

Cattle roundup in Wyoming

It looks like this cow was ready to get off the mountain

Putting tire chains on the truck while herding cattle in Wyoming

An anxious herd watches Rob Hellyer and his son, Jim, put tire chains on the truck

Several inches of snow fell that night and the strong winds made for rough road conditions.  As a result, the ranchers’ reinforcements (all neighbors) had to improvise.  The five-man crew coming up the mountain from Lander on the second day was forced to park their trucks and horse trailers in Atlantic City and ride the remaining distance up the mountain to meet the herd.  This delayed their arrival, and, the four-man crew from the cabin set out alone to begin the drive.  Despite the lead tractor getting stuck in a drift and a faulty tire chain that immobilized a truck and trailer, the four-man crew from the cabin was able to get the cattle lined-out and moving across the snow-blown mountain.

Gathering cattle in the blowing snow in Wyoming

Rob Hellyer (on foot) and his wife, Martha (on horseback), moving cattle through the snow

Gathering cattle in Wyoming

A view from the back

Gathering cattle in the winter in Wyoming

Martha Hellyer and her son, George

With eight riders, progress was steady for the rest of day two.  The cattle reached the overnight holding pen, 15 miles from the cabin, and were fed just before dark.  After a long day, the crew was ready for a meal and a warm fire to escape the single digit temperatures and strong winds.

Feeding hay in winter in Wyoming

Jim Hellyer feeds hay in single digit temperatures

On the last day, the cattle were driven off the mountain along highway 28.  The riders’ job was to keep the herd moving steadily, keep cattle out of the road, and be careful of oncoming trucks and traffic.  Contrary to the dismal weather forecast, winds were mild on the third day and the crew was able to move the herd roughly 20 miles to winter pasture.

Trailing cattle along the road

The herd passing Red Canyon.

Last of the herd goes by.

Rob Hellyer and his daughter, Jessica, bring in the last of the herd.

Remember snow days when you were a kid? It was so much fun! No school; just drinking cocoa and wearing 14 layers of clothes to go run around in the yard.

Well, the RealRanchers of the Green River Valley (and most others I’ve ever been around) do not believe in snow days.

THIS is a snow day for Wyoming ranchers. It means you’re working IN the snow. Not getting OUT of work or school because of the snow.

In order to be the best caretakers of the animals they raise, ranchers have to be on call 24/7/365. Whether it’s gathering the herd in a blizzard, feeding in below-freezing temps, chopping ice on water or doctoring sick animals in the howling wind, the work must go on.

Those animals aren’t going to take a day off from eating or drinking. They’re selfish that way.

Do you have a similar story to tell? Tell us about it in the comments section or at www.facebook.com/realranchers.

Photo taken by RealRanchers.com during the 2011 Green River Drift.

Fall is looking good in Crook County, Wyoming.Fall Autumn Devils Tower CattleRancher and Wyoming State Senator Ogden Driskill took this photo recently of his heifers (young female cattle that haven’t calved or have just had their first calf) on his ranch which is located near Devils Tower. Devils Tower was the first U.S. National Monument and has quite the legend.

Many of Wyoming’s ranches border state and federal land, ensuring the connectivity of open spaces and Wyoming’s iconic landscapes.

Yes, I know I’ve been lax in my duties writing about the Upper Green River Cattle Drive this year, so here is a little summary and photos to make up for it.

There was so much snow in the mountains this year and it took so long to melt off that the drive started about a week late.

Bob Klaren and Kent Price look off the south end of the Mesa during the Upper Green River Drift (Photo by Gina Feltner)

Bob Klaren and Kent Price look off the south end of the Mesa during the Upper Green River Drift (Photo by Gina Feltner)

The cattle had very good grass down on the Mesa where we started and they hated to leave it, I can’t say I blamed them since all they had to look forward to up on the mountain was shorter grass and wolves and grizzly bears, but once we got moving, the cattle trailed pretty well.

Early Morning on The Mesa (Photo by Gina Feltner)

There were a few interesting things we saw this year on the drive.  We had our first bear-killed calf on the trail this year as the cattle were moving up.  It is the furthest down we’ve ever had a kill; I guess the bears got tired of waiting for dinner and decided to come find it.

Charles Price Kent Price Search for Sick Calves Photo by Gina Feltner

Charles Price and Kent Price search for sick calves during the Upper Green River Drift (Photo by Gina Feltner)

Gina Feltner and I saw a grizzly bear on the trail one morning toward the end of the drive.  Despite all the problems the grizzly bears cause, they are still fun to see.

Down the Hennick Draw Photo by Gina Feltner

Going down the Hennick Draw during the Upper Green River Drift (Photo by Gina Feltner)

We also had dudes with us from Irv Lozier’s outfit again this year and I have to give a shout-out to them.  Some of them were here last year and some were new this year, but they were all very friendly and helpful.

From RealRancher Kent Price – Daniel, Wyo.

NOTE: This article appeared in the March 5, 2011 issue of the Wyoming Livestock Roundup and was written by Cat Urbigkit. It features Boulder-area rancher and County Commissioner, Joel Bousman. We posed a question about the Wild Lands Order on our Facebook page and want to share the testimony of a RealRancher.

Wild Lands Order opposed in Wyoming

Photo by Stephanie Russell - http://www.cowgirlgraphics.net

Boulder rancher Joel Bousman testified before the U.S. House Natural Resource Committee in late February, speaking in opposition to the Obama administration’s Wild Lands Order (SO 3310) and its impact on jobs and economic growth. Bousman was speaking as a Sublette County Commissioner and President of the Wyoming County Commissioners Association.

“A skeptical and calloused view might be that the Department of the Interior is attempting an end-run on Congress by repackaging what we once knew to be a Wilderness Study Area and simply calling it something different,” Bousman said. “But looking at the guidance used to implement SO 3310, it seems that an end-run is exactly what is being attempted.”

The Wild Lands Order proclaims that protection of “lands with wilderness characteristics” (LWCs) is high priority for the Bureau of Land Management, and the open and productive natural state of such lands should be protected through designation as Wild Lands. The order instructs the BLM to maintain an inventory of LWCs that are outside areas currently designated as wilderness study areas.

Bousman argued that little has changed in terms of the environmental landscape that would change the inventories completed pursuant to Congressional mandate of more than a decade ago.

“Where the environment has changed, it has most likely moved away from a wilderness condition,” Bousman said. “Simply put, Mother Nature does not ‘create’ new wilderness in the span of 20 years. She does so either very abruptly with eruptions, earthquakes and floods, or very gradually, over hundreds of years. Thus, this present-day call to arms to protect wilderness lands is merely an excuse to loop in hundreds of thousands of acres of public land into an overly prescriptive management regime, when in fact, the land in question is no more wilderness than it was in 1964 following the passage of the Wilderness Act or at the conclusion of the Federal Land Policy and Management Act inventory in 1993.”

Wild Lands Order opposed by Wyomingites

Photo by Stephanie Russell - http://www.cowgirlgraphics.net

Bousman’s written testimony noted that according to the draft policy, grazing may be consistent with wilderness characteristics.

“However, grazing management practices (range improvement projects, vegetation manipulation and motorized access) ‘could conflict with protection of wilderness characteristics.’ Reservoirs, stock water tanks, pipelines and fences have all been installed (often at permittee expense) to distribute livestock across the allotments and improve the range resources (water, wildlife, soil, vegetation). These projects and their maintenance are vital to the economic viability of the ranching unit. Treating grazing and grazing management practices differently under this policy would have significant cumulative impacts on the grazing industry,” he said.

“Restrictions on the placement, construction, or maintenance of range improvement projects would have a significant financial impact on both the individual operator and local economy, most notably tied to increased labor cost associated with potential restrictions on motorized use within LWCs,” Bousman stated. “Further, the loss of vital water sources (used heavily by wildlife as well as livestock), tied to maintenance and water development restrictions, would likely cause livestock to concentrate around remaining water sources making it difficult or impossible to achieve the Wyoming Standards for Healthy Rangelands (a permit requirement). In addition, the loss of range improvements would likely result in a reduction in stocking rates. Finally, predator control would be severely limited due to motorized use restrictions, which in turn would increase predation on livestock as well as wildlife.”

Bousman said the Obama administration should rescind its Wild Lands Order.

“It is not supported by the law and is contrary to thoughtful public policy,” Bousman said. “New wilderness designations are and should remain the province of Congress.”

As the temperature cools, the leaves turn to brilliant yellow and orange colors, the days shorten and eventually snow appears on the mountain summer range, the cattle head for home. The cows are just like the deer and antelope. They start migrating to the home ranch as the fall weather start to send reminders of winter.

Many of the cattle run in common grazing allotments where several ranchers’ cattle run together (see Kent Price’s posts on the driving cattle to the summer pastures).  As the cattle trail from the mountains and reach the low lands, the ranchers have to separate their own cattle from the main bunch and take them to the home ranch.

Rancher Nikki Marincic watches the Price-Sommers cattle during fall gather near Pinedale, Wyo.

Depending on the location of the home ranch, the cattle trail five to 70 miles to get to a “cut ground.”  A cut ground consists of an open area, vaguely defined either by fences, roads, or topographic features where cowboys separate the cattle according to which ranch’s herd they belong.  The cattle are bunched in a localized area and each rancher rides into the herd and “cuts” or brings out his own cattle from the main herd.  The cattle are put in a “cut” or herd consisting only of the individual rancher’s cattle.  The rancher’s cattle are identified by the rancher’s brand and earmark (tag or notch on the cattle’s ear, much like an earring) that is on each cow.

As Kent Price talks about in his posts on http://www.realranchers.com, the cattle bunch up at the "Drift Fence." Here the livestock can be easily "cut" or separated based on which ranch owns which cattle.

Many of the cows know where their cut is located and they try to get there on their own accord.  If they have their calf with them, the ranchers will usually allow them to go on their own.  Many times the cow has become separated from her calf, and has to be “mothered up” or joined with her calf before she is allowed to leave the herd.  Yearlings are like many kids and are just having fun.  They don’t care where they are while enjoying life.

The wintery weather in Pinedale comes earlier than in other parts of Wyoming. Here the ranchers are driving cattle home after spending summer on the range.

While the rancher is in the main herd cutting out the ranch’s cattle, other riders are on the outside keeping the main herd in one bunch and only letting out the cattle being driven to the individual cuts.   There will be another rider by each individual cut to keep the cattle in their designated area and not allowing stray cattle into the “cut.”

After driving the cattle down off summer range, they group up at the Drift Fence to be cut into each ranch's herds.

Once the cattle are all separated, they are driven to their home ranch.  This process goes on for around two weeks as the cows trail from the mountain pastures.  The summer cowboys ride back for the cattle in the mountains which have not headed home.  After it has snowed enough to make the landscape white, an airplane is often flown over the range to look for stragglers which are still in the mountains.

Often the riders go back several times to get the stragglers who haven't come down on their own accord.

As the sun rises over the Wind River Mountains and the steam from the breath or hot bodies of the cattle can be seen in the air, the excitement of working the cattle takes place.  It is a great feeling to have a well trained cow horse move its muscles under you as the horse automatically outmaneuvers and out thinks the cow to put her on the edge of the main herd and then into the individual cut.  This is also a great time to visit with neighbors and friends.

Cattle get loaded into trailers to haul to the home place.

Some ranchers have private allotments in the foothills and haul or drive their cattle to and from the private pasture, but we’ll save that for another story.

By RealRancher Jonita Sommers -Pinedale, Wyo.

The cows have been up on US Forest grazing allotments for more than a month now. The Upper Green River Cattlemens Association pays riders to stay on the mountain with the cows and move them around to prevent overgrazing, watch for problems, doctor the sick, and keep an eye out for bear and wolf problems. While these riders do a good job moving the cattle around, typically this time of year we help them move some of the livestock into a different allotment on the mountain.  Today’s ride was to Trail Creek Park.

We spread out across the allotment that the cows are in (the allotment is quite large) and move through the trees, willows and valleys locating cattle and pushing them with us to a common trail where everyone shows up.  It was a little difficult to find the cows early on because a thick fog was settled in.  At one point I was supposed to meet up with fellow rancher Albert Sommers, but the fog was so thick I couldn’t see very far.  He called out my name and we discovered that we were only about 100 yards apart.  Eventually the fog lifted and despite everything we did make a fairly good gather.  The cows went into Trail Creek very smooth.  It was a nice cool morning for driving cattle.

Often we will find kills made by wolves or bears when we make this ride, but none were discovered this trip.  Last year I found a calf that had been killed by a grizzly bear and then chewed on by the wolves.  The only thing available to look at was the hide and bones, there was no meat left.  They found that it was killed by a grizzly bear judging from the bite marks on the skin. On our way home we heard over the radio from one of the riders in another area that they had discovered a yearling (one-year-old) that had been killed by a grizzly bear and buried.  Also they had spent time that morning chasing wolves away from a cow/calf pair (mamma and baby cow) the wolves were trying to attack.  We are not allowed to kill the wolves or grizzly bears to protect our livestock.

The wolves and grizzly bears have become a major problem in this area and not just for ranchers, for campers and other people too.  It is no longer safe for you or your kids to roam up and down the little streams to fish by yourselves.  The grizzly bear and wolf populations are out of control and many feel that a regulated hunting season would be a good compromise for all sides.  After all, deer and elk populations were thriving while being hunted, at least until that wolves started to impact their numbers.

I took this photo (above) of a clear cut on our ride today (where the trees were all cut in a certain spot during the logging days in this area).  It shows the damage being caused by the pine beetle plague we are seeing all up and down the Rocky Mountain Range.  These clear cuts are the only solid green areas you will see in the forests today.  The trees are young enough that they can fight off the pine beetles with their ample supply of tree sap.  Unfortunately, many years ago most logging was shut down in this area due to litigation by extremist environmentalists.  It seems that logging wasn’t so bad after all when you look at this picture.

Despite all the issues we ranchers deal with when grazing on public allotments, you sure can’t beat the view from our “office” window.

From RealRancher Kent Price – Daniel, WY

We helped one of our riders push cows to a different grazing area in the Teepee Creek allotment the end of July.  It was a beautiful day.  The cows were gathered from a large area in small bunches and pushed toward the new grazing area. The beautiful day quickly turned, let’s say, not so beautiful. So let’s start out with a pretty picture…

My fellow ranchers Gina Feltner, Bob Klaren & Taylor Selby push through the wildflower-dotted meadows up to Teepee Creek Ridge.

On our way down the mountain we ran into a neighbor who found one of my calves killed by a grizzly bear. (To learn about the value of a calf, read this great article on the Economics of Ranching). Remember all the ranting I did in one of my posts about grizzly bear problems…this is why I holler.

He was verified by the Fish & Game Department as being killed by a grizzly. Notice how this is a nice big calf and NOT some weak, little, sick calf like some people would have you believe predators always eat. Typically a griz will bite the calf (sometimes they kill full grown cows or yearlings as well) across the withers (front shoulder area) and puncture the lungs and other vitals in this manner. Then they will proceed to eat them, sometimes burying part of the calf and coming back later. When they are done the calf will be completely skinned. The wolves will find the bones and crack them for the marrow inside. If the animal was killed by wolves they will often show bite marks around the flanks, the tail may be chewed off, the nose will be bitten and chewed on, and often the rectum is pulled out (the wolves often pull out the rectum while the animal is still alive).

The type of trauma on the hide proves the calf was killed by the bear. This little fella didn’t die on his own for a bear to find him later. He met a brutal death.

The Green River Drift is the largest continuous operating cattle drive on federal land in the United States today.  Some of the cattle travel as far as 75 miles from the home ranch to the summer grazing allotment. These ranchers know how to properly manage the land and care for their animals while persevering through a myriad of challenges.  This drive and the ranchers involved in it are endangered because we are not allowed to adequately defend our property.

Ok, ranting session over. I’ll leave you with a pretty picture…

Ranchers Charles Price, Bob Klaren & Gina Feltner move cattle up Teepee Creek.

From RealRancher Kent Price – Daniel, WY

Sunday morning my family and I went out and had a fun time picking wild flowers and monitoring our federal spring grazing land.  We drove on the Oregon Trail trying to imagine our ancestors walking and riding in a covered wagon across this sagebrush flat with very little supplies. Our ancestors came here on the Oregon Trail looking for land to settle which is what makes our ranch what it is today. As the 5th generation on this ranch my husband and I hope to preserve and carry on that dream to future generations.

Traveling down part of the Oregon Trail. (Inset) A marker for the Oregon Trail.

As federal land ranchers, we have taken a proactive role in managing our rangelands.  We work with the federal agencies to set management objectives.  We monitor our federal grazing lands to determine if we are meeting those objectives.  The monitoring can include documenting the impact our cattle have on the area. Today, many anti-grazing organizations are trying every way to stop all grazing on federal lands. Taking an active role in management helps document our stewardship and educate the anti-grazers that cattle grazing is actually a healthy and sustainable activity on federal rangelands.

RealRancher Kari's husband Cotton examines the forage with their daughter on their public grazing lands. Cattle grazing is a sustainable way to manage public lands.

Our ranch is highly dependent upon federal grazing lands and, in fact, Sublette County is nearly 80 percent federally owned.  We pay rent to the federal government to let our cattle graze these lands. Without federal land grazing, the ranches in our county would not exist (which means less food on your table).  The private property, currently hay meadows and river bottom land where cattle live during the winter months, would become subdivisions and houses.  Therefore ranchers are doing all that they can to stay in business while being stewards of the land to provide open space and wildlife habitat for everyone to enjoy.

From RealRancher Kari Bousman - Boulder, Wyo.

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